General F.A.Q.

vintage decants perfume reformulation chart classic cologne

I thought vintage fragrance expired?

The primary factors that affect the longevity of fragrances are oxidation and temperature fluctuations. Contrary to popular belief, it is relatively uncommon for a fragrance to deteriorate. A well-preserved bottle acts as a time capsule, maintaining its original scent for many years. When stored in a temperature-controlled environment with minimal exposure to oxygen, a fragrance can retain its integrity for decades, including its top notes. There are two main types of expired fragrances: a "turned" fragrance, which has a slightly spoiled aroma, and one that has lost its scent entirely. In my experience with numerous vintage colognes, encountering a turned fragrance is quite rare. Often, individuals mistakenly assume a vintage bottle has gone bad after a single spray, not realizing that if it has not been used in years, the atomizer may need several sprays to clear out any old, dried liquid. Additionally, splash bottles are more susceptible to oxidation due to their exposure to air, making it less likely for them to remain true to their original scent throughout their lifespan. For this reason, I typically transfer splash fragrances to spray bottles. Ultimately, fragrance brands often perpetuate the notion that colognes expire quickly to encourage consumers to purchase new products in my opinion.

Is vintage fragrance safe?

The International Fragrance Association (IFRA) asserts that reformulations of perfumes are implemented for public safety, particularly through the elimination of certain allergenic ingredients. It is important to note that all of these fragrances were initially tested and approved by their manufacturers for safety when they were first launched. Typically, perfume consists of about 80% alcohol, 10% water, and 10% essential oils.

Speaking from personal experience, as someone with asthma and allergies to dust, pollen, and pet dander, I have never experienced any adverse reactions to vintage colognes, nor have I observed such any such reactions in others.

 Ingredients like oak moss, patchouli, and aldehydic notes have been staples in hand soaps, laundry detergents, candles, and air fresheners for many years. Therefore, if you are uncertain or sensitive to fragrances, it is advisable to first test a spray on a test strip, followed by a small application on a small area of skin before using it more broadly. Should you experience any skin irritation, headaches, or other symptoms, stop using the perfume.

Alternatively, if you still wish to enjoy fragrance, you could consider applying it to your clothing instead.

Is the bottle pictured where my decant comes from?

Yes! As a fellow collector, I have always struggled with how vendors rarely release an items bottle info. This is very important for the serious collector due to batch variations.  After the bottle is empty, I delete the images and search for another vintage version. I'll then update the listing with different photos, and a different description if needed in reference to the updated bottle.

How can I trust the quality of your decants?

Before starting my business, I'm a frag head first and foremost. Fragrance is something I enjoy, and a hobby I would be collecting for regardless. 

Over the years, I have smelled a vast array of fragrances, honing my nose to a sophisticated level. I have been able to curate a collection of some of the rarest fragrances available for sampling. Each scent is meticulously hand-decanted, with precise measurements taken using a disposable syringe to minimize oxygen exposure. 

 I understand how it seems hard to believe a fragrance made forty+ years ago could still smell as good as the day it was made, but it's true. 

Why are a lot of your perfume bottles not full?

There are a few reasons; 

One - Evaporation, with vintage perfume as with any liquid it can occur. That doesn't mean the scent has degraded, and with some bottles it happens more than others.

Two - Some bottles I have personally used throughout the years.

Three - Some bottles it can be rare to find full bottles.

Will my vintage decant be an exact copy of the scent I remember?

Yes! But keep in mind, all vintage fragrance may have slight differences if compared side by side. However there is no mistaking that natural ingredients like oak moss, that are no longer present in current formulations of perfumes like Polo green, may smell drastically different.

I personally don't like the smell of modern synthetic oakmoss, animalic notes, or patchouli. In my opinion in a vintage, those ingredients are very smooth and appealing, in modern perfumery they are often very harsh and scratchy.

How many sprays are in a decant?

Approximately*

2ml= 26 sprays

5ml= 65 sprays

8ml= 104 spays

Can I suggest a fragrance I'd like to see in your store?

Yes! Contact us & let us know your favorites, we will do our best to always update the store with new additions.

I love fragrance, but my skin is sensitive to it, what can I do?

If your skin is sensitive to fragrance, you can spray your clothes or hair and be able to still enjoy fragrance.

Ensure your not wearing a light color if the cologne's juice is dark to avoid staining.

How would I know if I'm allergic to fragrance?

Since the same ingredients used in perfume, can be generally the same that are also used in air fresheners, hand soaps, laundry soaps, scented candles, etc. If you are sensitive to these, vintage perfume would be no different.

Reformulation - F.A.Q.

What is IFRA amendment 51?

The International Fragrance Association (IFRA) establishes the guidelines that must be adhered to in mainstream perfumery. In August 2023, amendment 51 was enacted, introducing 48 new restrictions/eliminations of various synthetic ingredients frequently used in fragrance. Thus leaving the current state of mainstream perfumery weakened and significantly compromised.

  • A Reddit user by the name of SarvGarg made an excellent easy to understand article about Amendment 51, I reposted it on my server here.

For those interested in obtaining the official PDF from IFRA, a simple search for "IFRA Amendment 51" will yield the document as the top result.

It is important to note that independent niche brands and middle eastern brands may not adhere to these changes. As they can have the freedom to select their ingredients without IFRA's influence. However, if a brand is acquired by a larger corporation or they want to attain a stronger mainstream worldwide distribution, compliance with these guidelines may become necessary.

Viva La Vintage...

Are early or first batches of cologne better?

Most of the time yes.

Within fragrance, the first or early formulations of a scent are going to be the closest to the perfumer's original creation.

Over time fragrances often can get reformulated and may change in strength or original scent profile.

Sometimes but not always, a perfumer can help a brand reformulate a scent, and it could become a better version of itself.

However more often then not some vintage scents that use natural ingredients, cannot be recreated the same using all synthetic ingredients.

What is reformulation?

Reformulation is when a fragrance company changes the original formula of a scent. The public is not made aware of this. Usually but not always, after a reformulation the scent may become altered and or weakened. This can happen because of ingredient recalls, or a change of manufacturer. Often after a reformulation the packaging may undergo a change. Sometimes it's extreme like a new bottle style, or sometimes it's very subtle like a slight rewording or placement of the text.

How can I identify if my newer bottle has been reformulated? (2023 and newer)

From the years 2000-2023 Ingredient lists on the backs of perfume boxes were very long and detailed(15+ ingredients). Now with newer bottles 2023 and newer, if you look they have become shorter again,(maybe seven to ten notes) this is because of new ingredient recalls.

Here is an example.

Do middle eastern/clone fragrances like Armaf get reformulated?

From my experience it all depends, middle eastern brands like Fragrance world, Afnan, Al Haramain, etc are unpredictable. I feel they don't abide by IFRA's guidelines unless they have a fragrance that gets uber popular, and want bigger distribution for a singular fragrance they will reformulate.

Rasasi reformulated the original Hawas when it got popular, as did Afnan - Supremacy not only intense.

Buying Guide.

Where can I purchase vintage?

The most basic easiest route is typing the name of the cologne you want and adding words like "vintage" or "batch" or  "original formulation" etc. (ex: "Ralph Lauren Vintage Polo cologne") Keep in mind you'll almost always be buying second hand. Be cautious if you buy splash bottles under half full and A sealed box or a spray bottle is usually your best bet when buying vintage. 

You have two routes online to buy from; you can either buy from a trusted website/dealer that specializes in selling vintage perfume, a google search can pull up many to choose from.

Or you can buy from a third party website like eBay. Mercari, or Etsy. If you navigate with caution, they can be excellent outlets for finding good vintage. Check the sellers feedback, and if they have other listings, look for sellers that specialize in the sale of vintage. 

Most name brand stores and websites will be selling you the newest formulation of a fragrance, unless they specify otherwise.

Be aware that some sellers use stock photos, so you may not be getting the same bottle that's in the picture. When in doubt I would message the seller or I always look for listings with multiple pictures.

Estate sales, or some perfume shops even have vintage sections if you ask! Let your nose be the judge!

 Most importantly have fun, and realize part of the fun with buying vintage fragrance can be the chase!

Should I worry about counterfeit vintage bottles?

No, that's the great part about vintage, it is highly unlikely to come across counterfeit bottles. I would only be cautious if was a prestigious vintage scent worth over 500$. Then you would probably want to proceed with caution.

How can I trace a batch code or how can I date my cologne?

To trace a modern batch code you could use a website like Checkfresh.

 To identify a vintage, use that website in conjunction with the icons underneath the bottle or box. I made the image on the bottom of this page to help reference that. The information in that image was sourced from pictures I found on eBay of different Eau Sauvage boxes. The timeline defined was referenced from various pictures I found on Raidersofthelostscent.

There's also multiple pages dedicated on how to read individual batch codes on Raidersofthelostscent. 

What are easy signs to identify vintage cologne?

These were the most noteworthy reformulations that have happened within perfume.

Deep deep vintage - pre 1993: A short list of ingredients on the box, (alcohol,water fragrance) or no ingredient list at all. No bar code on the box and no other logos on the box or under the bottle and it would be a pre 1993 bottle. The formula will have natural ingredients with no restrictions.

Deep Vintage 1993-2000: A short list of ingredients on the box (alcohol,water,fragrance) means it was made before the year 2000, and the formula will have slight restrictions within natural ingredients (6%).

Vintage Pre 2000-2016: A long list of ingredients on the box (20+ ingredients). Use a website to trace the batch code, these formulas still have small traces of natural ingredients (2%).

2016-2022: These formulas will have full synthetic ingredients, and no natural ingredients., With long ingredient lists on the box (20+ ingredients) check the batch code with a website to date them. 

2023-Current: These formulas will have full synthetic ingredients, and have been restricted on the amounts that can be used or allowed. They have shorter ingredient lists (15 or less) due to new ingredient recalls. Check the batch code with a website to date them.

How can I date A middle eastern/clone fragrance without batch codes?

Since middle eastern brands rarely do batch numbers, you'll have to read the ingredient list on the box to check your version.

Pre-reform bottles usually will have an ingredient called lilial, it's full name is "Butylphenyl Methylpropional". Look on the box for that ingredient, if it's present you should be getting a stronger earlier batch.

Lilial was removed mostly during 2021-2023. Lilial was a note with a mild floral aroma that was also used as a fixative and could also enhance projection.

Note, newer re-formulated colognes, now have a shorter ingredient list again. (post 2023) You can see that here.

What are good websites that reference vintage?

Basenotes has really great user made forums regarding vintage.

Fragrantica is the largest perfume database online. I find their "reminds me of" section, very helpful for discovering new vintage scents.

Raiders of the lost scent has an incredible user made database, helpful for learning batch codes and deep diving into vintage.

A great Raiders of the lost scent batch dating page

Parfumo is also a great fragrance database for referencing vintage.

Check fresh is a great tool for dating modern batch codes. 

Opinions

What is considered a "vintage" fragrance?

I define "deep vintage" as fragrances produced before the year 2000, as this period marked a significant shift in the industry with the removal of natural ingredients in favor of synthetic alternatives.

The term "vintage" applies to scents created between 2000 and 2022, largely due to the ingredient recalls initiated by IFRA, which I believe have negatively impacted the quality of perfumery.

Why do some of your listings also say "unisex?"

That's because the scent was originally released for women/men, but in my opinion I consider it could be worn by either, unisex.

CK1 by Calvin Klein released in 1994, was the first scent to be marketed "unisex". Before then every fragrance was strictly marketed for man, or women. In fact fragrance profiles now like Amber, Oriental, Chypre, White floral, and Gourmand are all now marketed unisex.

I can only speak for myself as a man, but I would argue 90% of fragrance could be worn by either sex. I still consider the exceptions to be extremely floral scents I perceive as feminine, and extremely brooding dark scents I perceive as masculine.

If you love fragrance, keep in mind your missing half the picture if you never step outside of your comfort zone.

Is an EDP stronger than a EDT?

There is a lot of discussion in the fragrance community about this topic, and I’d like to share my thoughts.

  • No, edp's in modern perfumery are not always stronger than edts.
  • No, the term "cologne" in vintage perfumery does not reflect it's strength.

However 

  • Yes, Pure Parfums, and extraits in vintage women's perfumery usually are stronger, identical versions of their EDT counterparts.

In modern perfumery, even though it's often claimed that Eau de Parfums (EDPs) have a higher concentration of oils and are therefore stronger, my experience suggests otherwise. The strength of a fragrance doesn't significantly differ based on its concentration; but rather, each formulation or flanker tends to offer a unique interpretation of the original scent.

The term "elixir" just seems to be a marketing strategy used to boost sales rather than any reference to a fragrances strength.

 When it comes to vintage men's fragrances, most were predominantly labeled as "colognes" before evolving into Eau de Toilettes. The term cologne came from a classic masculine scent profile titled  the "Eau de cologne".

In contrast, vintage women's fragrances often included "extrait" or "pure parfum" versions that were indeed stronger and closely mirrored their Eau de Toilette counterparts. This allowed women the option to choose a more intense scent. Historically in the past, many women preferred subtler fragrances that didn’t draw much attention. Consequently, pure parfums are now rarer and tend to come with a higher price tag for that reason.

What's the best way to store my perfumes/decants?

An ideal location would be one that is shielded from temperature fluctuations and excessive light. Suitable spots include enclosed shelves or drawers in a bedroom, study, or office.

Avoid areas near windows where light exposure is high, and avoid bathrooms due to varyied temperatures.

Is maceration fact or fiction?

Yes, maceration is real, but there is a caveat! Let me explain...

Maceration is defined that as a perfume ages it can get stronger, and better. For this reason a lot of people believe when they receive a weak perfume, to put it in storage and over time it will increase it's potency. Most people say this works especially well with middle eastern/clone brands specifically, but no one has an answer why?

The reason that's factual is because a lot of middle eastern/clone brands are still using trace amounts of natural ingredients in their perfumes. Natural ingredients can age and increase in potency over time just how a bottle of wine would. Most clone fragrances are distributed online and not in department stores so they don't have to worry about following IFRAs guidelines for that reason. 

However, maceration doesn't occur within synthetic ingredients. Synthetics are not organic, therefore they do not age or break down in composition the same way a natural ingredient would. Since most newer mainstream brands follow IFRAs guidelines and use full synthetic ingredients, that is why they those formulas will never increase in potency.

What are your thoughts on the use of animalics?

I am truly relieved that modern perfumery has moved away from the use of animalics. For those unfamiliar, the practice was indeed harsh. It lead to a large depletion of animal populations and natural resources all for the sake of vanity. While we cannot change the past, it raises an important question: should we abandon and erase classic perfumes due to this history?

I believe we should honor the fragrances that remain, acknowledging a chapter that, while dark, should be remembered but never repeated. If we disregard this history, we risk rendering the sacrifices of that era meaningless. It is a unique period that warrants respect and appreciation for what it contributed to the art of perfumery.

What's the best way to apply cologne?

Sometimes Three sprays is all you need.

First, apply one to the back of your head to create a scent trail. Perfume also lasts longer on hair.

Second, spray the front of your shirt collar to enjoy occasional wafts throughout the day.

Third, a spray on the top of your hand provides a convenient area for a quick sniff whenever you desire.

*For an extra touch, consider adding a spray on each shoulder for a more pronounced presence.

Additionally, a favored spot among women is the back of the knees, which offers a subtle scent trail without being overpowering.

What's your favorite vintage perfume?

I have a strong affinity for any well-crafted fougère or chypre!

My number one would be Pure Tonka by Mugler. I feel its the perfect gourmand/chocolate/coffee scent.

However I will always have a strong connection with Giorgio Beverly Hills Red for men. It was the first fragrance I connected with when I was young. I will always have good scent memories with that one.

My Favorite Notes are;

1. Vintage Cedar

2. Modern Incense

3. Vintage Lavender

vintage decants cologne perfume batch date classic code