Buying Guide
So you've received your vintage decant and loved the scent but don't know how to find a full bottle? Here's a comprehensive Q&A about vintage fragrance!
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Are early or first batches of cologne better?
More often than not yes.
Within fragrance, the first or early formulations of a scent are going to be the closest to the perfumer's original creation.
There are some vintage scents that used raw materials in their formulas, that cannot be recreated the same way with synthetic alternatives.
I thought vintage fragrance expired?
Fragrances age like fine wine, not spoiled food!
The primary factors that affect the life of a fragrance are oxidation and temperature fluctuations. A well-preserved bottle can act as a time capsule if preserved right.
Fragrance brands want you to believe scents expire easily so you buy their new products!
Why is vintage perfume sometimes darker in color, does that mean it's spoiled?
If the color is pitch black, then perhaps yes.
Generally, vintage perfumes tend to be darker due to the use of raw materials they contained. Ingredients such as patchouli, myrrh, and oakmoss were organic which gave them real pigmentation.
In contrast, a synthetically processed material without any organic material will usually have less or no color.
Exact year varies by brand
Reformulation - F.A.Q.

What is reformulation?
Reformulation is when a fragrance company changes the original formula of a scent. The public is not made aware of this. Usually but not always, after a reformulation the scent may become altered and or weakened.
Reformulations may happen because of ingredient recalls, or a change of manufacturer. Often after a reformulation the packaging may also undergo a change. It can be a new bottle style, or sometimes very subtle like a slight rewording or placement of text.
Are those years exact? (Read first) Foreward
No, but those are the closest to a generic estimation across all brands. Each brand is slightly different and actually EACH PERFUME IS DIFFERENT DEPENDING ON THE YEAR OF RELEASE. Usually with a shared possible three year gap between the year I chose to highlight.
Here's an example: I mention IFRA did a major reformulation in 2023. It was actually a mandate that was passed in 2020. However the reformulated bottles didn't start hitting stores until around 2023. *If it was a perfume or formula that already existed before the mandate was passed, a brand usually has up to two years to change the formula. *If it is a new release, the brand must follow the guidelines immediately.*Sometimes the reformulation can happen in the middle of year.*Also you have to factor in the time it takes for manufacturing, packaging, and shipping that can add more time until the reformulated perfume hits shelves.
This can be costly for brands having to adhere to new guidelines. It can require new technology, new science and require getting rid of all prior equipment. This is why there's usually changes to the bottle, box, or manufacturer after a reformulation.
Have fun and enjoy your scent the journey! This is a deep dive section but I would generally say if you want a classic smelling perfume buy batches made before 2001, if you want semi-modern, fresh, salty, aromatic and aquatic smells buy batches before 2016, and if you like aroma chemicals (ambroxan amberwood and Iso-e-super) buy batches before 2023 for the best results!
1985's Reform (ingredient lists appear)
**Note exact dates for reformulations may vary up to three years within the date I've listed depending on brand, or fragrance.(Per Ifra regulations)**
Probably not the only ingredient formulated this year, but the only well documented one, occured in 1983, and went into effect roughly around 1985. Musk ambrette was mainly being used as a replacement for deer musk at the time. It's actually derived from the hibiscus flower, with a sweet and musky smell to it. It reminds me of castoreum mixed with carnation, you could compare it to sarsaparilla, or an animalic type of root beer.
A lot of very early animalic fragrances used this note, I believe Kouros and Antaeus both. This reformulation isn't well known, because castoreum and civet did a good job commonly replacing it after the reform.
This reformulation happened at the same time they introduced ingredient lists on boxes. "Alcohol, water, fragrance" . Also look for changes in bottle or manufacturer Ex: Charles of the Ritz Kouros bottles became "Parfums Corp" circa 1986. Also warnings on the box that the contents were flammable appeared around this time too. info about perfume being "flamable" also shows up around this time.
1993's Reform (the Green dot logo)
**Note exact dates for reformulations may vary up to three years within the date I've listed depending on brand, or fragrance.(Per Ifra regulations)**
Prior to 1993, our perfumes were crafted in conjunction with the use of raw materials without many restrictions.
However, this led to the depletion of sandalwood supplies, deforestation, and the endangerment of various animal species. In response, organizations such as PETA, in collaboration with IFRA, intervened to regulate the use of endangered natural ingredients used in perfumery, establishing a limit of 0.6% that took effect roughly in 1993.
As a result, Oakmoss heavy fragrances like Puig's Quorum experienced a slight reduction in potency, while others, such as Acqua Di Parma's Original Colonia, replaced certain musks or animalic notes with partial aldehydes to compensate for the changes. There were still great substitutes for these notes at this time, so this isn't a well known reform.
**This older group of colognes will usually have yellow, amber, or reddish hues to the liquid. You'll know if it's a post-1993 reformulation if the "green dot logo" circular arrows icon, is under the bottle or on the box.
2001-2004's Reform (the long ingredient lists)
**Note exact dates for reformulations may vary up to three years within the date I've listed depending on brand, or fragrance.(Per Ifra regulations)**
The appearance of long ingredient lists.
(Major change) 2001-2004 - At this time computers and the internet began to transform our lives. Technology was advancing rapidly. Nutrition facts and ingredient lists were introduced on our food products. Perfume soon followed suit. To make fragrances more accessible for individuals with hyper-sensitive allergies ingredient lists were made mandatory on boxes . The use of raw materials were further reduced from 0.6%, to a 0.1% cap.
The use of endangered and animal-derived notes also became prohibited.
This is a reform that the timeline depended on the brand and or fragrance. Ralph Lauren/Cosmair, adapted their whole brand to the new changes almost immediately in 2001. Ifra offers a three year grace period to adhere to new mandates.
However most existing perfumes didn't adhere to the new mandate until 2004. You'll know if it's been reformulated if there's a long ingredient list on the box.
Classic scent profiles that depended on raw materials like anamalics, fougeres, chypres and woody's took a drastic turn in terms of scent profile. (The classic smell)
Afterwards, there became an uprise in the early 2000's aquatic freshies such as Chanel's Allure Homme edt and many more with they're use of aroma chemicals like calone. It Turned into sort of a fragrance revolution for this time period.
**You can recognize this post-2001 reformulation if there is a long detailed ingredient list on the box.
2011's Reform - 43rd Amendment (natural color from liquid removed)
**Note exact dates for reformulations may vary up to three years within the date I've listed depending on brand, or fragrance. (Per Ifra regulations)**
2011 - (IFRAs 43rd Amendment) required the removal of some organic compounds (notably atranol & chloroatranol) that had potential allergins attached to the raw materials they were associated with.
Afterwards, notes like jasmine and oakmoss were slightly altered in smell. However, there were still great substitutes for these notes at this time, so this isn't a well known reform.
*You can recognize this reformulation because after ingredients are diluted of their organic material, they don't age the same as ones that were. If you Look up vintage Versace Man Eau Fraiche, or even older Ck1 bottles, they will be a darker amber color. Bottles when the ingredients were modified or not included, the liquid will usually have little to no natural color.
**A source of information for my research came from Laurie, who was a perfumer between 2008 and 2014. She maintained a series of insightful blogs that offered a transparent and informative perspective on the fragrance industry. Her writings are still accessible on her website https://www.theartisaninsider.com/tag/ifra/.
2016's Reform - (new restrictions on fixatives)
**Note exact dates for reformulations may vary up to three years within the date I've listed depending on brand, or fragrance.(Per Ifra regulations)**
The changes implemented in mid-2016 significantly impacted numerous perfumes. As new regulations introduced restrictions and removals of several fixatives and compounds. This led to a noticeable decline in the depth and longevity of many fragrances.
Key ingredients such as Lilial, Limonene, Eugenol, Coumarin, and Citral were severely restricted and there was a complete removal of a compound known as Lyral.
As a result of this change, well-known perfumes such as YSL's Nuit L'homme and Armani's Code EDT including numerous others experienced a noticeable decline in longevity and depth.
*You can recognize this reformulation because after this change most liquid in perfumes became more transparent. They would use a dye afterwards to change the color in most instances. You can date these perfumes easier in modern batch code websites.
2023's Reform - 49th Amendment (shorter ingredient lists again)
**Note exact dates for reformulations may vary up to three years within the date I've listed depending on brand, or fragrance.(Per Ifra regulations)**
The 49th Amendment introduced a revised system for categorizing ingredients, leading to shorter ingredient lists (again) on product packaging.
The reformulated perfumes following IFRA's Amendment 49 began to emerge around 2023, featuring 22 notable ingredient removals. Among these, the most significant change was the restriction/removal of butylphenyl methylpropional, commonly referred to as lilial. This synthetic compound, which mimicked the scent of lily of the valley, also served as a fixative with aromatic properties.
Its widespread application in perfumery meant that its removal impacted the longevity and aromatics of numerous fragrances, including YSL's Y EDT, Versace's Pour Homme, PDM's Layton and Dior's Diorella, Gucci Guilty Absolute, etc to name a few.
**You can recognize this reformulation because the ingredient list on boxes became shorter again.**
2025's Reform - 51st Amendment (new restrictions on aroma chemicals)
**Note exact dates for reformulations may vary up to three years within the date I've listed depending on brand, or fragrance.(Per Ifra regulations)**
Created in August 2023 and taken into effect in 2025, amendment 51 introduced 48 new restrictions/eliminations of various synthetic aroma chemicals frequently used in fragrance.
Most notably new restrictions were placed on Iso-E-Super, Coumarin, Aldehydes, Limonene, Geraniol, Citronellol and the removal of Benzyl alcohol and Benzyl Salicylate.
As an example Iso-e-super is a widely used note in fragrances, such as terre d'hermes, Dior Homme 2021 and Hermes EAU Givree.
*You can recognize this recall if you have a shorter ingredient list on the box and check the batch code on a website.
- A Reddit user by the name of SarvGarg made an excellent easy to understand article about Amendment 51, I reposted it on my server here.
*It's important to note that some independent niche brands and middle eastern brands may not adhere to these changes immediately. However, if a brand is acquired by a larger corporation or they want to attain a stronger mainstream distribution, compliance with these guidelines may become necessary. Ex: both Tom Ford and Frederic Malle we purchased by Estee Lauder, etc.
Why are batch codes sometimes scratched off of vintage bottles?
It's not because it's a counterfeit bottle, it's just as official as any other bottle.
This was a primitive technique done by both stores and sometimes distribution, to camouflage the production date of items.
Here's why, with examples:
1. Legally a store is given a certain amount of time, to be able to sell a fragrance until it was considered "expired". Stores sometimes would scratch the code off and sell off the rest of their stock without having to destroy the leftover "expired" items and lose profits.
2. Some stores would sell the "expired" fragrances in bulk, to independent buyers/resellers at discounted rates. The new seller would scratch the barcode off preserving that it wasn't for meant resale. Meaning basically if it came into a legal battle, they could say it was sold as a collectible item, and not meant for use on skin.
3. Some distributers would do this as well, heck sometimes they wouldn't even print a batch number on the box or bottle, Lancaster did it a lot. My theory is basically the same. As an example, lets say Lancaster produced 1000 bottles that were almost ready for distribution and IFRA said they had to reformulate and destroy every bottle that pre-dated a certain timeline. For a smaller manufacturer that couldn't afford to throw away hundreds of thousands of dollars away. They could still ship the rest of the orders to department stores without codes. I would imagine if they got in trouble, they could blame it on a machine error but it would be harder to prove they intentionally did anything against a new mandate.
If you find a vintage bottle with it's batch removed, you have to look at all of it's other distinguishing features to identify it's time line. In summery, vintage bottles with scratched off batch codes are the same exact products as bottles with a preserved batch code.
Enjoy the journey!
Are middle eastern/clone fragrances like Armaf reformulated?
It varies by brand, but mostly yes.
An easy way to recognize newer batches vs older batches is the ingredient list on the box, example here.
Buying Guide.

Where can I purchase vintage?
Keep in mind when buying vintage you'll almost always be buying second hand.
Typing the name of the cologne you want into a google search engine and adding words like "vintage" or "original formula" can lead to results.
A sealed box is usually your best bet if your new to buying vintage.
Third party websites like eBay. Mercari, or Etsy. If you navigate with caution, can be excellent outlets for finding good vintage!
Check the sellers feedback, see if they have other vintage listings. Look for sellers that specialize in the sale of vintage.
Keep in mind, most name brand stores and websites will be usually be selling you the newest formulation of a fragrance, unless they specify otherwise.
Be aware that some sellers use stock photos, you may not be getting the same bottle that's pictured Look for listings with multiple pictures, or ask the seller for additional info.
Estate sales and some perfume shops even have vintage sections if you ask. Let your nose be the judge!
A short ingredient list on the box is an easy way to tell if it's a pre 2001 batch.
Most importantly, realize part of the fun with buying vintage fragrance can be the chase!
Finding a good batch - made easy.
Significant reformulations in perfumery happened in 2001, 2016, and 2023. For best results, you want to pursue the original formulation before it had a major reformulation. Here's the easiest way to find a good batch for your scent.
If your perfume was released before 2001- Search for boxes with a short ingredient list, usually five ingredients or less. (See pictures at the bottom of the page) Longer ingredient lists didn't appear on boxes until after 2001.
*After 2001 it's easier to trace your batch code using a website like CheckFresh.
If your perfume was released between 2001-2016 check it's batch code. I would pursue batches made before 2016.
If your perfume was released between 2016-2023 check it's batch code. I would pursue batches made before 2023.
How can I date A middle eastern/clone fragrance without batch codes?
Since middle eastern brands rarely do batch numbers, you'll have to read the ingredient list on the box to check your version.
Note, newer re-formulated colognes, now have a shorter ingredient list again. (post 2023) You can see that here.
Do I need to be concerned about counterfeit vintage bottles?
Luckily unlike modern perfumery, it is far less likely to encounter counterfeit bottles when buying vintage. However, before any large or rare purchase you should definitely cross reference with existing pictures before buying. Your safest bet is to purchase from vendors that specialize in the sale of vintage perfume.
What are good websites that reference vintage?
Basenotes has really great user made forums regarding vintage.
Fragrantica is the largest perfume database online. I find their "reminds me of" section, very helpful for discovering new vintage scents.
Raiders of the lost scent has an incredible user made database, helpful for learning batch codes and deep diving into vintage.
A great Raiders of the lost scent batch dating page
Parfumo is also a great fragrance database for referencing vintage.
Check fresh is a great tool for dating modern batch codes.
**Check our Video section for a list of YouTubers that have top quality content about vintage fragrance as well.
Other info.

Can you recommend any good video content about vintage perfumery?
Yes! We dedicated an entire page for our favorite content creators from YouTube. You can view that here.
What is considered a "vintage" fragrance?
I define "deep vintage" as fragrances produced before the year 2001, as this period marked a significant shift in the industry with it's reformulation to a 0.1% cap for the use of raw materials at the time.
The term "vintage" I apply to scents created between 2001 and 2023.
What defines a fragrance for a season or time of day?
It's subjective but I consider citrus and fruity scents to be more warm weather appropriate. while I associate spicy and dark scented fragrances with colder weather.
With morning fragrances I relate with lively energetic aromas and night time fragrances I consider to be more sweet and alluring.
Scent profiles like soapy or Aldehydic, I would consider versatile because they can be multi occasional.
Is maceration fact or fiction?
Yes, maceration is real, but there is a caveat! Let me explain...
Maceration is defined that as a perfume ages it can get stronger, and better. For this reason a lot of people believe when they receive a weak perfume, to put it in storage and over time it will increase it's potency. Most people say this works especially well with middle eastern/clone brands specifically, but no one has an answer why?
The reason that's factual is because a lot of middle eastern/clone brands are still using trace amounts of raw materials in their perfumes. Natural ingredients can age and increase their potency over time.
Synthetics are not organic, therefore they do not age or break down in composition the same way a raw material would.